Into the Heart of Lesotho

TrekWorld_Lesotho_Shara Johnson_Landscape with horse
Lesotho landscape | Photo: Shara Johnson

The instant my husband and I crossed the Monontsha border from South Africa into Lesotho, the prim British lady canned inside our GPS unit began her campaign to back us away from the dramatic scenery and the friendly people.

“Turn around as soon as possible,” she advised with an icy malice.

Like the pit in a fruit, Lesotho is a tiny country wholly surrounded by South Africa, and we had entered through the northeastern Monontsha border primarily because it was conveniently situated on the route we were traveling but also because we were drawn to a mystery: half of the maps we carried marked it with an “X,” indicating a border crossing, the other half did not. Driving through the nearest South African town of Phuthaditjhaba, the mystery deepened as we couldn’t find a single road sign suggesting a border crossing existed. We ended up at a lonely hilltop shack with a gated entry.

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Near the Monontsha border | Photo: Shara Johnson

“No, this is not a border crossing!” a man there informed us, clearly amused. “You must go back to Butha-Buthe.”

The border crossing at Butha-Buthe was a hell of a long ways away. We said “Thank you” and continued milling around the area, cross-referencing maps and views on the GPS until we finally arrived at a small, desolate, long-ago-white immigration building.

The woman inside insisted we didn’t need a stamp in our passports to cross into Lesotho. We were very leery of this, having gotten into a wee bit of trouble with the Mozambique border patrol for failing to get stamped when we crossed from South Africa to Mozambique (a country that sports an AK-47 on its national flag). While we talked with the woman, two customs officials searched our vehicle with conspicuous glee, delighted to search the foreigners’ truck. They snickered at the new packages of underwear we’d just bought in Johannesburg, then waved us through.

“Turn around as soon as possible,” the GPS lady demanded over and over until we shut her off. Since she couldn’t convince us on that score, when we reactivated her, she began plotting our demise by telling us, “Turn left here,” sending us over cliffs where not even the sheep dared graze, or, “Turn right here,” ordering us into river ravines to mow down the ladies washing their colorful laundry in the cold water. She attempted to lead us straight uphill on cow paths, and into the chicken-infested yards of the locals.

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Roadside public telephone | Photo: Shara Johnson

There are few cars in rural South Africa, where you can drive for 45 kilometers without encountering another vehicle in either direction. Lesotho, however, gave us an even greater appreciation of the soulful beauty of an empty road. There is a grand liberation in this aloneness, and you quickly become accustomed to it, even in love with it. It was a bit disappointing when we eventually came into some traffic congestion—that is to say, encountering two cars right in a row traveling the opposite direction. We were overtaken, with a comically slow pass, by only one vehicle—a yellow police van.

Lesotho, dubbed “The Mountain Kingdom,” is a wonderland of twists and curves and convoluted topography. It is not a territory for the motion-sick. A man we met on a train in South Africa told us the straightest stretch of road in all of Lesotho was the stretch across the Katse Dam. Throughout Lesotho, from point A to point B as the crow flies might be one kilometer, but the road distance is more like five kilometers because there is no crossing the canyons and deep ravines; you spend your day skirting the rims and traversing hillsides.

Despite the crisp air, we drove around with the windows partially down and the radio playing on low, comforted by listening to the DJ’s native language even though the only word we ever understood was “Lesotho” (pronounced “leh-soo-too”). We kept hearing a pervasive background noise from outside, however, and we stopped and got out of the car to try to identify it. Being in such a dramatic landscape of mountains and valleys, so sparsely populated, we expected a certain quietude. But the hills were alive with the sound of livestock bells. Sheep and cows sprawled across the topography, keeping their perch on improbably steep angles. So many simultaneous bells inevitably formed into rhythmic patterns, and as we stood still and listened, it became an almost tribal sound, like African drum beats, the “dink dink dunk dink dunk dink” of a hillside echoing with various pitches of cow bells. The occasional voice of a shepherd rang out above the din like a tenor’s aria. On other terraced hillsides, the brown spring fields were being turned over by men with single-blade plows hooked to oxen. It was as if the shepherds and their flocks were the radio for the farmers.

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Lesotho settlement | Photo: Shara Johnson

When my husband asked why I included a drive through Lesotho in our South African itinerary, I told him I simply wanted to see its interior. I’d looked at the maps and seen the paucity of roads, the serpentine course each and every one that existed drew, had read about the mountain passes only 4×4 vehicles were qualified to cross. I simply wanted to see what lay hidden in this tiny kingdom made up of 9,000-foot-plus mountains trespassed by only a few squiggles of dirt road. Driving into the dusk that first evening in Lesotho, my husband said, “I certainly feel like I’m driving into the interior of something!” He couldn’t identify the nature of this thing, this wild vastness; and I agree, it was very complex. A Cimmerian heart, a soul of height, an inconceivable weight of earth, eons of geologic and climatic forces, the breath of secrecy—a handful of people who defended themselves against European invaders through the alliance with their mountainous landscape.

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Police van | Photo: Shara Johnson

Darkness hit us along the 78-mile road from Hlotse to Katse. The pitch-black, newly paved road had no painted centerline, and the edges were marked only with faintly reflective tabs of orange on one side and red on the other. The radius of the curves decreased while the frequency of them increased, and the hue of my husband’s knuckles turned ever whiter, knowing that a tire off the edge of the road would send us tumbling down a mountainside.

We spent the night at Katse in the only hotel in the region. Its straight tiled hallways gave us the uneasy impression we were in a hospital. Awaking in the morning, I was quite surprised to see out my window that I was 15 feet from a cliff, overlooking the cobalt waters restrained by the Katse Dam. It was a splendid way to begin a day.

That afternoon we drove toward the southern border and the famed Sani Pass. Though our truck was comfortable and warm, a part of me yearned to travel the desolate roads as the locals did—wrapped in a thick blanket, perched on a horse’s back. My heels would be the accelerator, the reins my brakes, the livestock bells would be my radio, and the Deep and Wide—that transcendent space—my cab. The most popular tourist activity in Lesotho is, in fact, doing pony treks; you can ride for an afternoon or several days.

As evening approached, the sky clouded over. Tiny crystals began spritzing our windshield. Soon, a full-blown snow storm engulfed our truck and the valley we were driving in. Having rented our truck in South Africa, its tires weren’t remotely prepared to meet snow. We took a series of slippery hairpin turns at about five miles per hour, my husband once again white-knuckled on the steering wheel and me biting my nails. Eventually the road mercifully straightened across a high plateau.

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Snowstorm | Photo: Shara Johnson

In the distance we could make out a frantic figure beside the road—a man wrapped in his traditional Basotho blanket, pressing his hands together in a pleading, prayerful gesture, holding them out in front of his chest. He had been caught out unexpectedly in the rapidly descending storm. We made space for him in the back seat.

“Underberg?” he asked.

“No. Sani Pass.” We had reservations at the Sani Top Chalet at the Lesotho border.

“Underberg?”

“No, we’re only going as far as Sani Pass.” Underberg was a city over 40 kilometers away in South Africa via a road famously and fatally treacherous in bad weather. I put my hands together in the same prayerful gesture he had, but I put mine to the side of my head and flopped it over upon them. “We’re sleeping at Sani Pass.”

“Oh.” He nodded his head. “Okay.”

“It’s okay?” I asked.

“Okay.”

To make room for him in the back seat, I pushed to the side a basket of food and a cooler of beer. Bananas, cookies and a loaf of bread lay in the open basket. I couldn’t tell if he eyed them, but we offered them to him anyway. He wolfed down a banana and some bread, and drank the beer like water as we forged on through the storm.

“Good?” I asked. He smiled and slouched down in his seat.

When we stopped short of the border, confusion swept over the man, who was now warm and full, and perhaps a bit buzzed. Obviously this was not okay.

“Underberg!”

I shook my head. “No, Sani Pass.” I pointed toward the chalet.

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The twists and turns of Sani Pass | Photo: Shara Johnson

He stared out the window for a minute, studying the round, stone rondeval huts, icicles dangling from the rims of the thatched roofs. At last the situation dawned on him. Dejected, he slowly opened the car door and pulled his blanket tight around his neck. Snowflakes swirled into the car in a gust and accumulated rapidly on the man’s shoulders and bare head. Suddenly, impulsively, my husband reached into the backseat, gathered up all the rest of the food we had and shoved it into the man’s arms. He bowed his head in a gesture of gratitude and stepped out into the blizzard, into a landscape rendered featureless, a white canvas at the edge of the Mountain Kingdom, his bare hands clutching the foreigner’s food against his chest.

We spent the evening swigging Castle beer at the highest pub in Africa. We asked the proprietor if it could be a problem getting down the pass if it kept snowing. “Yah,” he said, “it could be a problem,” and carried on about his business. Several years ago, 30 people were stranded at the chalet for a month because of a sudden snow storm! A helicopter was eventually chartered to fly them out.

By morning the snow had stopped, and eventually the clouds cleared away to reveal the renowned Sani Pass. Only 4×4 vehicles are allowed to travel it. It’s like an amusement park ride, all the twists and turns. I had a devilish desire to put the truck in neutral and careen down like Mr. Toad’s Wild Ride. Apparently, South Africans are fascinated with the snow. They come by the droves to hire 4×4 vans to convey them up the pass.

Down, down, down we drove and at last were processed quickly through the South African border, as we were the only people crossing in from Lesotho. As we continued on our way, we kept waiting for the GPS to insist we turn around as soon as possible.

“Go forward 500 meters!” she said. “Keep going straight!”

Now there was a long, straight stretch of pavement to follow. Already I was nostalgic for the dusty winding roads of Lesotho. I was a little disappointed with the GPS lady, leading us away from the simple, soulful secrets of the Mountain Kingdom. If she had told us, “Turn around as soon as possible,” we might have, for once, obeyed her.

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Southern border | Photo: Shara Johnson

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Postscript: In late 2012, Lesotho declared a food emergency. Two consecutive years of failed crops has put over three-quarters of a million people at severe risk. Lesotho also has the third-highest HIV infection rate in Africa, with one-quarter of the population infected. It is a stunning country visually, but a country whose people are hurting. As a tourist, you cannot solve a country’s problems, but it is good to be aware of them.

 

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Shara Johnson plots her travels from her home base in Nederland, Colorado, where she scrapes up travel money hosting other travelers in her B&B studio. You can follow her adventures on SKJtravel.net, view some of her favorite photos at SKJphotography.net and be her friend on Facebook via Skj Traveler.

14 COMMENTS

  1. Amazing! Lesotho is truly a mountain kingdom with spectacular scenery and you have done it a great justice.
    We have recently been appointed the operators at Sehlabathebe National Park, an awesome place to say the least – if you ever come back for a visit, please come visit us!!

    • Thanks, John! I’m so glad you appreciated the piece as someone who is living there amid the beauty. I would love to return some day and spend more time; I was very reluctant to have to leave as soon as I did to catch a pesky airplane home!

  2. Great story, and very well written! Because I’m always interested in small, remote, quirky, and unusual destinations, Lesotho has always intrigued me, but I’ve never taken the leap and gone there. Thanks so much for sharing this. Lesotho has now been bumped up on my travel list.

    • Thanks, Ryan. I’m glad you enjoyed the piece and am pleased it has inspired you to bump Lesotho up on your travel list! I do hope you go … I wish I could have spent more time there myself.

  3. Hi

    Nice post. I was just wondering how far I into Lesotho I can get through the Monontsa border before having to turn back in a private vehicle (Family sedan).

    I would really like to see a little past this border when I next visit this region.

    • Thanks! I think the answer to your question lies in the weather conditions … I don’t know when you’re planning to go. By and large, if you stick to the roads that do not specifically say 4WD on the map, they are passable by a regular vehicle. What we did was take the road that skirts just inside the border heading west, until we headed south to the Katse Dam. Very shortly after crossing the border at Monontsha we came across a muddy section in which a local’s sedan-type vehicle was stuck and a bunch of locals were trying to push it out. With our truck, we were able to easily drive through. If it had been dry, though, it would have been no problem for the sedan. So all I can say is it depends on how the weather has affected the roads. But one thing to know is you cannot drive Sani Pass without a 4WD vehicle. Not because it is impossible, but that is simply an enforced rule for that road.

  4. Lesotho looks amazing. The scenery is so dramatic! Thanks for the post, I haven’t really considered traveling to Africa but my husband definitely does so will have to keep this place in mind. Happy travels 🙂

    • I’m glad you found it interesting, Christine. I would most certainly recommend a jaunt through Lesotho. Plus it’s fun to have been somewhere so few people even know exists. 🙂 I do hope you make it to Africa.

    • It really is beautiful, Freya. I see it in your future. 🙂 That was my first GPS experience, and having just had one again in Iceland that got confused, I’m learning to take them with a grain of salt. Will still never leave home without a paper map!

  5. Thanks for the insight into Lesotho, a country I knew very little about. I certainly didn’t expect to see snow in your telling of your time in Lesotho. The landscape is really unusual.

    • I’m happy I could provide you more insight, Suzy. Thanks for reading. I can tell you I really didn’t expect to experience snow in my time in Lesotho, either, as it was late spring! It was quite magical, though.

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